Category : Trip Update

Viva La Mexico

It’s 6:45am. The sun has just crested the East hills of San Diego County and John and I are up organizing a few items for an overnight trip to Mexico. After meeting Stephen through Facebook, we learned of a few solid and growing farming ventures he has his hand in: one outside of the Salton Sea, another just over the Mexican border, and a third in a greenhouse construction operation. In crossing the United States and visiting dozens of farms, this is our first opportunity to see large scale ag. production.

mexican desert

Headed to the desert.

We know Stephen has followed our journey across the United States visiting sustainable farms. We have his phone number and he has our address. He will arrive to meet us and take us over the border to Mexico in an hour and a half.

road to mexico

In the truck later that day, on the road to Mexicali.

John receives the phone call saying our host is downstairs and we take a breath and head out. Stephen is the size of a lumberjack and shakes our hands smiling and apologizing about the traffic. His German Shepherd, Max, is going berserk, barking in the back of his pickup. Stephen lets him out for a “potty break” as we climb into the truck. John’s elbow hits something as he rests it on the console, and we look down to find a small machete. We both look at each other and say, “What are we doing?”

german shepard

Meet Max...

By 8:30, we smile as we listen to Stephen talk about his family and watch his face light up as he describes taking them to see the farm grounds he manages. We manage to get past the barking German shepherd in the back of his truck and the pint sized machete stuffed between the passenger seat and console. What began as an anxiety riddled car ride with a stranger, who happened to need a German shepherd for personal protection and wield a machete, has become a road trip with a hilarious friend who charms us with his dedication and openness to his profession. For the next 36 hours, we shadow Stephen as he does his job and does it well.

german shepard

Turns out Max is very well trained, and a good guy to have around.

Our first stop was an 1800 acre farm near Brawley, California. Stephen is the contact for Sun Terra Produce Traders and acts as the general manager. The farm employs hundreds of people, working together to meet strict guidelines for safety and health practices set forth by the USDA. The safety manager, Greg, tells us that many of the problems bigger ag. production faces today occur not in production but how the produce is handled after it has left the farm. Regardless, Greg and his team go through meticulous detail to ensure the growing and harvesting processes are as sanitary as humanly possible. Stephen receives order for certain numbers of crops through Sun Terra and works with owners of the land to research the crop, prepare for the growing season, and raise the crop. The farm rotates the crops grown on the land so as to preserve the nutrients in the soil and maintain year-round production.

iceberg lettuce

Kate walks carefully through the rows so she will not damage any of the plants. Hairnets are a must for food safety laws.

farm labor

Skilled farm workers move with an efficiency that I have rarely seen. This is not "unskilled labor", they are fast and efficient.

When enough of the crop has been harvested, huge trucks cart the produce to a Sun Terra office location just a few miles away where the produce is chilled and packaged in a huge warehouse. There it sits until the delivery truck arrives shortly thereafter and brings it to locations all over the country. We visit the location on a slower day and are told that, when the harvest season is at its height, trucks are lined up for miles waiting to receive their cargo. Forklifts speed and twirl past each other with swift movements controlled by their drivers who look as though they could manage the machines blindfolded. But not today.

produce chiller

Someone way smarter than me invented a way to flash-cool hundreds of pounds of produce with speed and little waste. The door shut on this guy and in less than an hours lettuce is chilled and ready for shipping.

forklift

These operators could fly on forklifts the size of large trucks. I give them credit for never spilling any produce.

food safety

People safety and food safety, always in practice.

As we approach the border, Stephen regales us with stories of growing up in Brawley and his adventures over the Mexican/US border. Getting in is easy, he says. It’s getting back out that can be tricky. Like myself, there’s not much his parents let him get away with and the PG-13 jaunts in Tijuana and Mexicali usually ended up with him grounded or in trouble. That said, Mom, Dad, sorry I forgot to tell you we were going to Mexico. We had a great time!

Stephen, having made this trip many times, was familiar with a lovely hotel in a safe neighborhood frequented by American business people that would do just fine for the evening. Before visiting the greenhouse construction project Stephen had initiated, we checked into the hotel, threw our bags down, and got a bite to eat.

donkey in mexico

We shared the road with some interesting characters. This guy had NO control over where the donkey wanted to go. Stubborn as a mule!

Interestingly enough, Mexicali is known for its great Chinese food. Early in the 20th century, many Chinese immigrated to the US and found work at the Colorado River Land Company, building railroads and irrigation systems. To date, decedents of that migration reside in Mexicali and know how to make some mean Chinese food!

The next day, we visited Rancho Del Desierto, a 2,000 acre plot of land being cultivated for crop production under Stephen’s management. This land sees everything from onions to table grapes. While Stephen met with contractors for a new project on the property, we toured the land with Jose, Stephen’s right hand man. His English was about as good as John’s Spanish and we spent around an hour talking about the land, the jobs, our families and the cultural differences between our homelands. The man was a walking agricultural encyclopedia and fascinated us with his knowledge of the property.

onions and wind break

Natural wind breaks are planted to protect the onions from the strong winds.

green onions

A "Honey I Shrunk The Kids" view of green onions.

mexican farm worker

Skilled laborers bunch onions.

table grapes

Off-season grape vines. Stephen's farm produces wine grapes and table grapes.

desert leaf

A splash of color in the desert.

The closer to the border we neared on the West Coast, the more people seemed to have strong opinions about the safety of travel in Mexico. John and I learned that drug cartels have made many areas in Mexico treacherous and considered whether or not we were making a smart decision by going down there. For as nervous as we were traveling to Mexico with a “stranger” we met on the internet, John and I realized that, by opening up his life and career to two traveling strangers, Stephen had taken a risk as well. And, in all that we have learned, we know that without great risk, there will be no great reward.

german shepard in desert

Letting Max go "potty".

good times in mexico

Thanks Stephen!

Text by Kate, Photos by John & Stephen

Limbo: Not Nearly As Fun As It Sounds

Kate’s weighs in on time between travel and work. Kate:

Upon deciding to take 2012 and spend it at a farm, working with our hands and catching a glimpse into our future, John and I were brimming with excitement. We could just imagine the sense of satisfaction we would experience knowing that each day we would spend our hours learning about something we love, something we were willing to give up our old lives and careers to pursue. We chose to apply to farms that embodied our values, could teach us plenty, and those who looked like they had a good time doing so. The two of us enthusiastically retailored resumes, drafted cover letters, and filled out questionnaires, eager to get across our passion and dedication. And, with hopeful hearts and minds, we submitted them. And now we wait.

And wait.

And wait some more.

While we mused over what our time on a farm would be like, we kind of forgot about this “in-between time” where we would have to wait to find out if we would even get the jobs. I think, after spending so much time dictating how we would live, where we would go, and what we could do, we forgot what it was like to be on someone else’s schedule. Nothing has reminded us so clearly of this as the process of applying for jobs and the totally necessary element of waiting.

We’ve taken to calling this our “limbo” where we are killing time as productively as possible. We have both been keeping busy, in the meantime, working on side projects, processing the hours of photographs, notes, and video taken over the course of seven months. Additionally, John has dived into what is to be considered a culmination of all of those parts with his project Farm Marketing Solutions. Much more on that to come in the next few months. If his commitment to this project is any indication of its success, things look very bright. Until then, we are indescribably grateful to have family and friends put up with us until we hear back about our applications.

If there is anything that this trip has exemplified for me, it is that time is elastic. How many times have you thought to yourself, “That day FLEW by!” or the (sometimes miserable) opposite: “When will this day be over with?!” Coming back to the East Coast has already provided plenty of examples of both. This “limbo” period seems to exacerbate the polarity of how time goes by. And we find ourselves faced with two options: let it drive us mad as it crawls by or give it hell and use every second we have wisely to make the most of our future in agriculture.

Let’s give ‘em hell!

 

So, what’s next?

Working the Earth

For those who have not heard, Kate and I are taking this year to work on an organic vegetable farm somewhere on the East Coast. Since the New Year, we have spent time in San Diego and then put ourselves on a plane with our gear to fly back to New York/Connecticut. Well, we flew, and our bikes traveled FedEx ground. Because they’re afraid of flying. Imagine that.

We are just ending a short stint in New York City, showing my Mom around town, and saying hello to a few friends and family. Thursday, we head back to Connecticut to see more friends and family, and to continue work on our various projects. We will spend our weekdays in February working much, and sleeping much less. During the weekends, we will be seeing friends and family in New York,  Connecticut, and Boston.

We have not heard a definite yes or no from any farms as of yet. We are hoping to end up somewhere in New York, but we just cannot say who will have us yet. It’s a weird limbo period for us. The farms we have applied to have had to let their application deadlines run out, giving a fair shake to anyone that wishes to work on their farms. Did I do a good enough job keeping it vague? Bottom line is that you will know when we know, and right now, we don’t know.

Working Online

Kate and I are looking forward to being in one place and having time alone to work on our bicycle trip book. It is no small feat to process all the information from the trip. It is as an exciting venture as taking the trip. It has been fun to look back on the good days and the bad, and try to put them into words others will want to read. Not to mention, I have roughly one trillion digital photos, and hours of video.

The finished product will be published much the way Alastair Humphrey published his most recent travel book, There are Other Rivers. (If you haven’t picked up your copy yet, I strongly suggest you do. It’s a great read.)

I have been working on a side project that will launch this summer. To talk in cycling metaphors, the frame is built, I am starting to put on the components, and this spring will be spent fine tuning it, so that when it launches, it will provide a smooth and enjoyable ride. It is a project to help family farmers with the business side of producing food, and quite frankly I’m pretty excited. I want it vague for now because as the saying goes “Loose Lips Sink Ships.” To ensure you are one of the first to hear about this project Like us on Facebook, or Follow us on Twitter.

Amidst farming and writing, I also plan on further developing the FoodCyclist website this year. I will finally get caught up on gear reviews, photo galleries, video, and a gift shop. This will help me enhance your experience, so that when we hit the road again in 2013, the site will be an even greater resource for those who would like to follow along. With only about 40 hours required of us at the farm, it will not be hard to find time to make the rest of it work.

Part of producing our books and materials has been becoming an expert in Social Media. Much like craft beer and organic farming, social media experts or SMEs have seen positive growth in their market place. I have been studying best practices for social media marketing, so that I may apply my knowledge to our various projects. This will be very helpful the day Kate and I start a farm of our own. I am attending several events in New York City during the global Social Media Week from February 13-17. Some events that I am most excited for are held by one of my favorite social media companies, Likeable Media, right here in NY City.

It may all seem like a lot, but it feels good to be busy. It is all very exciting, and none of it feels like work. We are very motivated, and working very hard at what we are doing. This has been a serious transition for us, and we are getting to do what we love. Believe it or not, we have kicked some other projects to the back burner to give all the above mentioned work our full attention. I used to be in the entertainment business, now I’m going to be the World’s First Adventurer/Farmer.

Working on the Blog

For this year, we will keep up the photos and Video Vignettes based on our farming experiences. I have a bunch of photos to put up from Southern California still, and those posts are in draft form right now. It has been a real whirlwind coming back East, and there is definitely some serious adjustment taking place. It has been good to see more familiar faces, and familiar places. Jet-lag is fun and great! I recommend it!

Working on the Future

Our travel days are not over yet! For those who have written in telling me, “It was just getting good. I wanted to see you struggle in some far-off land.”, do not worry. It will come. This year will allow us to gain further knowledge in agriculture before going abroad. It will also allow us to really develop the site so that the experience is even better for you when we start to travel again.

Right now, we have definite plans to leave the States January 2013. Our first stop, Indonesia. We’re going to start off on foot with just backpacks, and then travel through Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand in 2013. At some point we’ll either have our bikes sent out, or buy a couple of cheap bikes to get from place to place.

After SE Asia we head to Europe for 2014. Perhaps we’ll have a stint in India in there, or some other new and interesting place. The beautiful thing is that Kate and I can change our plans as we see fit. The steps we are taking this year will hopefully provide a mobile source of income so that we will be able to work from anywhere, and thus, go anywhere. To answer the frequently asked question, “How do you do this? Did you win the lottery?” My answer is no, it takes a LOT of hard work, and the willingness to follow your dreams, for better or worse. If we had won the lottery, we might be in another country right now.

One thing is for certain, we are not done traveling! (Much to the dismay of our mothers.) We are happy to be back on the East Coast living our dreams, and making it all happen. Just cross your fingers that we end up on a great farm this year.

Food Cyclists Work The Earth in 2012

Planning out the future…

With the wide world looming right in front of us, there have been a lot of tough decisions to make. Where should we go? What should we do? What will we see and learn when we get there? We realized, that if we are to study agriculture abroad, perhaps we should learn a little more about it first. Not to say these last 6 months have not educated us. Far from it. We have seen what American agriculture has to offer, and perhaps have a better perspective than most. However, before we go forward, Kate and I would really like the experience of living and working on a sustainable farm for an entire season. We would like to experience, from seed to harvest, just what it takes to grow our own food. That experience will better prepare us for the questions we want answered from agriculture abroad.

With that sentiment, we are officially letting everyone know our plans for 2012. As of right now, Kate and I are staying in the United States through most of 2012 to work the land and learn how to grow our own food. We still have plans to see the world and we are still holding onto our plans to travel by bicycle. We are just going to spread them out throughout our lives instead of doing it all at once. We will still keep FoodCyclist.com up to date with photos and stories of our adventures, and we hope that you will all keep in touch and experience them with us.

This trip of ours started because we wanted to follow our dreams. Those dreams change and clarify as we discover and experience more and more.  We always have our careers and future in mind. As many things that happen to us by chance, each step has been carefully thought out with our best interests in mind. These last few years leading up to our bicycling adventures and the bicycling adventures themselves have been a lot of work. We constantly feel challenged, and by over-coming those challenges, we find incredible reward. This next step will be pivotal in effecting the rest of our lives. I really do enjoy sharing such life-changing happenings with all of you.

So what does that mean for now?

For now Kate and I are 4,900 miles into our journey and going strong. We are currently in San Luis Obispo, CA, which is a couple of hundred miles North of Los Angeles. We will be in LA house sitting for a dear friend over the Christmas holiday, then heading to San Diego after the New Year to hook up with Julie from PubQuest.com. After a few weeks in San Diego (this is where our plans start to become uncertain), we will fly ourselves and our gear back to Connecticut to spend a few weeks with family and friends before starting our farm apprenticeship.

What farm are we working on?

Truth is, we have no idea. We just settled on this plan over the last week and do not know where we will be able to land an apprenticeship. We have a few areas that we are looking at including (but not limited to) New York State, Oregon, and Virginia. This next week, in addition to riding down the Coast, we will be sending out cover letters, query letters, and resumes. We have a few ideas with regard to farms we would love spend a growing season, but I’m not saying anything yet because I don’t want to jinx anything. We’ll just have to wait and see.

What about after we are done with our farm apprenticeship?

Well, how far ahead can we be expected to plan? After our farming endeavors are done, we will continue to travel for a while. There is still a lot of planet to cover and we are eager to get out and experience it. This year of farming will hone our skills and train our eyes for picking up farming techniques in other countries. My long term plan is to live like Alastair Humphreys, the professional adventurer, but with my own spin. I will be the first farmer/adventurer in history. “Can’t be done,” you say. Well, people told us we couldn’t ride our bicycles 5,000 miles across the United States. I will make it work, as I always do.

Side Note: Who is Alastair Humphreys?

You mean besides the guy with one of the best names in history? Alastair is London native who has made a life and a living from going on adventures. His books and website have been a resource and inspiration throughout our travels. His most recent book, “There Are Other Rivers”, captures the spirit of why he does what he does, and more selfishly, why I do what I do. Kate and I have both read it, and it really hits home with our feelings on our chosen lifestyle. To everyone, especially our parents (who I know are reading this thinking we’re crazy), I seriously recommend picking up a copy and reading it. Worth every penny.

Where’s our first book?

Kate and I have been writing, and writing, and writing. Until this morning, that writing was without direction. In one of those “aha” moments, we found our format. We are working on a book about our 5,000 miles across the States and the experiences we have had. We are going to edit it down to 15 of our favorite stories from the road, and each write our different perspectives for each story. The good times, the bad times, our best day, and our worst. Being happy, getting sick, being assaulted, getting “adopted”, and more. Even the two of us talking about it this morning discovered that are huge disparities as to what we thought the other person was going through. There will be a lot of stuff that has never made it to the blog, and things no one has ever heard about, including the each other. The plan is to work on it over the winter, and have it finished and published very early next spring. There is a good chance we will self-publish, especially as first time authors. Believe me, I am perfectly happy with that option.

For now…

For now, we’ll keep the farm visits and brewery visits up as we ride down to San Diego. We have a mountain of video to edit from the last six months, and a lot of plans to make for this coming year. One of the best parts about this current plan is that we will be around for Kate’s sisters’ wedding next winter. A huge congratulations to Ernie and Joe, one of the most fun couples to watch HGTV with.

small organic farms

We started this trip to support small organic farms and that is what we have been doing. Through farmers' markets and farm visits, we have loved sharing our stories on FoodCyclist.com.

farmers market

Though we've seen countless farms and farmers' markets, we still are amazed by the things we find. San Rafael was the home of one of the biggest farmers' markets that we have seen. It was this farmers' market that inspired a short bike trip to Petaluma.

deer hoolahoop

California is so awesome that even the deer celebrate on a daily basis.

country line harvest

Our first stop was County Line Harvest, a vegetable farm 10 miles outside of Petaluma. They have two farms, this one up North and another further South. The two pieces of property allow for year-round production of organic vegetable goodness.

yurt

At County Line Harvest, Kate and I got our first chance to sleep in a yurt. A yurt is essentially a tent on steroids. They can range in size from 10' to 30' in diameter. The inside is pretty classy with a bed, a kitchen, lights, a heater, and a sunroof.

tara firma farm

Our next stop was at Tara Firma Farms just down the road from County Line Harvest. Tara Firma welcomes farm visits and, if you are in the area, you should definitely take them up on it.

baby chicks

The farm tour starts with the baby chicks in the brooder. These cute little guys and gals are never given any vaccinations, drugs, or GMO feed. They grow up to be hearty, healthy, and delicious chickens for roasting.

chicken house

Chickens spend all their time outside and on grass. No cages, no abuse, no drugs. Just happy healthy birds.

pastured poultry

It's a beautiful sight to see all these happy chickens doing what chickens do best: eat grass and scratch at the earth.

rooster

King of the Coop. Heirloom breeds of chickens, pigs, and cows are par for the course on Tara Firma.

goats

Kate makes friends with the goats on the farm.

pig in mud

Tara Firma Farms was a good look into the kind of farm I want when we settle down. With pastured pigs, chickens, cows, and a vegetable garden, they do it right when it comes to sustainable food.

piglets

All the pigs are raised on the farm. So are all of the chickens and cows. From birth on, the pigs are out in fresh air rooting around in the mud and enjoying the sunshine.

petting a pig

Pigs love when you scratch their bellies, we are told. Once you start scratching, they flop right over on their backs and, I swear, you can see them smile.

farm store

Tara Firma Farms has a great farm store! Not only do they sell their own produce and meat, but they sell food from neighboring farms and books on food education.

baker creek heirloom seeds

From Tara Firma, we went to the Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company in Petaluma. RareSeeds.com

heirloom seeds

Baker Creek has 1,275 different kinds of heirloom seeds. The seeds that they save and sell are very important to ensure those species of plants do not go extinct in a world where Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs) are increasingly pervasive.

pacific coast

Our friend Kevin says that we "have totally drank the California cool-aid." The weather is great out here, the people are happy, sustainability is a real priority, and good food abounds. I would say that there's a good chance that Kate and I will end up being West Coast lifers.

Trip Update

We are headed South from San Francisco toward Los Angeles and San Diego. Believe it or not, after years of planning, we are still up in the air as to what we are going to do after that. Stay tuned!

Knight with Shining Cutlery

Meet Ollie. Ollie used to belong to a homeless man who gave Ollie up to a shelter when he could no longer care for him. Ollie was sick, Ollie was weak and, I can imagine, Ollie was sad. Then a knight in shining armor came along and rescued Ollie. This man signed up to be a foster parent for dogs in need. He took Ollie into his care, nursed him back to health, and when the shelter called and said they had a family that might be interested in adoption, he told them it would not be necessary. Now Ollie is happy, healthy, and very much loved.

This would not be the last time this wonderful man would take into his care a stray or two, nurse them back to health, and do his best to make them feel happy, healthy, and very much loved. It is the same man who drove over 400 miles round trip when Kate was sick. The same man who brought us to see a doctor, and fed us well to bring up our strength.

That man is Kevin Crafts. A long time friend of the family, Kevin has watched Kate grow up through the years, and has supported our idea from day one. As a professional Food Stylist and writer, Kevin makes food beautiful for a living. So when we told him we were going to ride to support family farmers all over the world, he told us he loved the idea. He is based out of the San Francisco area, though he frequently travels for work. His food is not only delicious, but it photographs beautifully. He has worked on and written many books featured in William Sonoma, one my favorites being Ebelskivers(filled pancakes) which Kevin made for us while he was here.

Kevin is now in Connecticut for the week with family, while Kate and I get to stick around and dog-sit Ollie for a week. Our lives have been wrapped up in cooking food, going for walks with the dog to buy groceries, cooking more food, and enjoying some time to ourselves.

When I first arrived with my long shaggy hair, Ollie hated me. I mean, fiercely hated me. It was weird. I had done nothing to this dog, yet every time I would walk into the room, he would start to growl at me. Once I got my hair cut and started taking him for walks, it was a completely different story. With Kevin gone for the week, Ollie will not leave my side. He sleeps on my feet when I am sitting on the couch and has made himself at home next to the bed Kate and I sleep in. If he is not hanging out with me, he’s with Kate. It is a good way to live.

We are however missing life on the road. The time off is great, but we are travelers at heart. We were thinking of staying in San Francisco for the whole month of December, but now we are not so sure. We will have to see what develops, and what last minute things get thrown our way. For now, Kate is on the mend, we are relaxed, and Ollie is about as good as it gets as far as roommates.

This Thanksgiving, take a moment to stop and really appreciate what you have in life, the things you have worked for, the people who have helped you, and those who inspire you.  There are good times and there are bad times. Work hard to make it through the bad times, and stop, appreciate, and celebrate the good ones.

Thank you Kevin!

The Coast Post

Having crossed the Appalachian Mountain Range, the Snowy Mountain Range, The Rocky Mountain Range, and The Cascade Mountain Range, the Coastal Mountain Range was a piece of cake. However the Coastal Mountain Range yielded one of the biggest rewards we have received on this trip so far, and that is the Pacific Ocean.

So excited to be here!

It has been a dream riding South along the Pacific Coastline toward San Francisco. The rainy weather that most people complain about stayed at bay for a good portion of the time. Of our days spent on the Coast, only two were really effected by rain which in this region is unheard of!

There are beautiful vistas around every turn on highway 101 through Oregon and California, and Highway 1 in California. Though we did come to dread the sign “Scenic Vista Ahead” because it usually meant climbing another hill. For some reason, you cannot have a scenic over-look without a hill. Go figure!

The Coast was some of the hilliest riding we have done yet. Not to say it was not enjoyable, just challenging. With those hills came the reward of a screaming decent through fresh ocean air, while enjoying a glance down the coastline, followed by the slow trudge up the next hill which built anticipation for the next “Scenic Vista”.

One observation Kate and I made early on is that we’ve never really seen the sun set over the ocean before. Hailing from the East Coast, the only time we would see the sun on the horizon was at dawn. Now we cannot get enough of sunsets over the ocean. The vast Pacific, cutting its laser level line across the horizon, produces dramatic sunsets that would make the coldest of hearts stand still in awe and wonder.

A frequent warning as we rode down the Coast. We like to live life in the danger zone.

As often as it was sunny, it was foggy. Sometimes we got a little rain, but for the most part the riding was very enjoyable.

Saw Face Rock off the coast of Oregon. The water is freezing! Only a couple of seconds and you are numb to the bone.

Seagulls over the water. When we started to see seagulls while riding over the Coastal Mountain Range, we knew we were close.

Seagulls weren't the only birds we saw cruising the waves. Pelicans are a common sight out here. We've seen them gliding in formation up the curls of countless looming waves.

Sunsets over the Pacific are breathtaking. This picture is from Patrick's Point State Park in California.

A dog left his print on the beach.

We have had a lot of fun with the sunsets.

Relentlessly crashing on rocks or gently rolling on soft sandy beaches, the Pacific Ocean never takes a break.

Right place at the right time. I have no idea who this person is, but I have to thank her for making this photo one of my favorites. This was at Gold Beach, OR.

This is Buffy, the Australian, one of the many great people we have met along the coast.

One of our stops was at Valley Flora Farm in Langlois, OR. Thanks to Zoe, Danny, and Cleo for showing us around the farm and Langlois. We had a great rest day in the rain with them.

The Sea Lion Caves are the largest sea caves in the world. All the sea lions were outside, but the caves were still really cool.

Wonderful colors on the beach.

A bright spot in one of our rainy days, we realized that the road we were on was dedicated to our armed forces.

Swinging in off of the coastline, Kate and I rode through some seriously tall redwood trees.

Spent some time on Avenue of the Giants through Humboldt State Park.

With all the redwood trees comes a lot of roadside redwood art. Bears, Eagles, and Big Foot all waved hello as we rode along.

We said we were looking for a place to live. How about under the trunk of a tree?

Paul Bunyan and his trusty blue ox Babe.

Riding the Coast has been life-changing.

We made it safe and sound to San Francisco.

Trip Update:

Kate and I had a slightly unfortunate change of plans. Kate came down with a somewhat serious stomach bug and we had to call in the cavalry.  Our dear friend Kevin drove up to Fort Bragg where we were held up in a motel to rescue us. We were less than 200 miles from San Francisco. But when the body says stop, you stop.

Kate is back to 100% health now and we’re planning on making up those miles in the weeks to come. We missed a lot having not ridden through Petaluma, Napa, and Sonoma. That, and I really hate that we had to get into a car.

San Francisco is a wonderful city. We have been doing some exploring already. There are farmers’ markets everyday of the week if you know where to look. Local food is a lifestyle here, not a novelty. That being said, I have been stuffing my face like a madman trying to make up a little of the weight I lost before family comes to visit. I am dreading the inevitable, “You’re too thin. You haven’t been eating enough.”

It has been great to spend time with Kevin, rest up, and gain some insider knowledge on the cycling areas we missed. With fresh legs, no stomach virus, and a good game plan, we are looking forward to cycling around California wine country.

We are currently making our way down the Pacific Coast, but we cannot forget the great experiences we have had before we got here. Two days riding before we saw the great Pacific Ocean, we were in Portland, Oregon. It is said Portland is “where young people go to retire.” As we neared Oregon, we were told that Portland is a mecca of food, beer, and cycling. When we arrived, we found that all of the rumors were true.

We set ourselves up for a whirl-wind tour of Portland: Doughnuts, food trucks, beer, and, to top it all off, a farmers’ market.

When we're riding our bike we burn between 4,000 and 8,000 calories a day. We do our best to eat right, but sometimes, we have to treat ourselves. With that mindset, we made our way to VooDoo Doughnuts.

There's pure magic in the maple-bacon doughnut. It is one of their flagship doughnuts and, yes, it was amazing. Even I, a true believer in the powers of bacon, was a little skeptical at first. Once I bit in however, I was in maple-bacon heaven.

I had been craving a good sour beer for months. There's not a lot of good beer in the middle of America (although there is some if you know where to look). If good beer is hard to find, a good sour beer is ever harder. We had heard from miles away that if we went to Cascade Barrel House, we wouldn't be disappointed. Let me tell you, if you're a sour beer fan, this place is a destination worth planning an entire vacation around.

Traditionally, Belgian brewers allowed wild yeast to enter the brew naturally through the barrels – an unpredictable process that many modern brewers avoid. Because of the uncertainty involved in using wild yeast, the sour beer brewing process is extremely unpredictable. The beer takes months to ferment and can take years to mature.

Barrel aging isn't limited to sour beer. These barrels belong to Hopworks Urban Brewery in Portland. Hopworks brews all organic beer. HUB is another brewery that puts sustainability and bicycling at the forefront of their philosophy.

Oak barrels are not the only thing you can put beer through at Hopworks Brewery. 'Tis the season for pumpkin beer and you can't get more pumpkin than this!

Cheers to HUB for making Organic Beer that is delicious. Their reputation spreads far beyond Portland. We were told that we wouldn't be getting the full experience in Portland if we missed Hopworks and we weren't disappointed.

Part of the reason that Kate and I are visiting breweries is to experience beer where it is most fresh. There are not many people in the world who can say that they have experienced as much good beer as we have right at the source. A good example of fresh beer is getting a pour right from the fermenter at HUB in Portland.

This post wouldn't be complete without a nod to Hair of the Dog brewery. Their beer was recommended to us by a friend at 99 Bottles in Federal Way, WA. We're glad we followed his recommendation because Adam and Fred (two of the flagship beers at Hair of the Dog) really left an impression.

We capped off our stay in Portland with a visit to the farmers' market at Portland University. The colors were changing on the trees, there were pumpkins lining every other farm stand, hot cider was easy to find, and we discovered these gems at one growers stand.

We stayed with friends, Ben & Katie, in Portland. We were handed off to these two by previous hosts who thought our mutual love of beer and great food would bond us. We had a blast with these two and graciously accepted any and all advice they gave us about enjoying the city.

TRIP UPDATE:

Kate and I are in California, slowly making our way to San Francisco. We have visited a number of farms and breweries in the last couple days, and have countless scenic vistas. We thought there would be more connectivity once we hit California but it seems we are finding ourselves occasionally back in the “wild”.

We are very excited about the farms, breweries, and wineries to come. We have a boat load of great photos from the coast that we are eager to share with all of you.

5 months on the road! We cannot believe it.

This post, bunny approved...

Sunset from the deck of John's Apartment

After saying goodbye to the San Juan Islands (for now), we made our way South to Seattle. On the way, we met up with Warmshowers Host  Rick who took us to his favorite brewery. Skookum Brewery is located down a long driveway, almost in the middle of the woods, in Arlington Washington. Skookum is the kind of place that you would call “my brewery”. Started by former contractors, Ron Walcher and Jackie Jenkins, the “oak clad, copper banded fermenting vessels, mashtun, and brew kettle give a traditional look but still have all the modern brewing technologies.”

The beer at Skookum holds up to some of the best we have had. If you find yourself North of Seattle, it’s a must if you’re in the area when they are open.

Rick and us at Skookum

Getting into Seattle, Kate and I met up with another Warmshowers host, John. The view from his back deck was breath-taking, as shown in the sunset picture up above. We tried to make the best of our short time there. With so much to see in a big city, we stayed local to the Fremont area.

Kate snuggles up to the larger than life Fremont Troll. He is holding an actual Volkswagen Beetle in his hand.

There were two things that we had to do while in Fremont: 1. Visit Theo Chocolate, 2. Visit Fremont Brewing.

Lucille Ball ready for work at Theo Chocolate. With our friend Meg, we went on an hour and a half tour of Theo which of course including a lot of chocolate tasting. The name "Theo" comes from Theobroma, literally translated into "Food of the Gods", is the scientific name for the cocoa trees. Sidenote: Dogfish Head Craft Beer has a Theobroma Chocolate Beer

On the tour we learned the history of Theo, how the beans are sourced and processed, and how their delicious chocolate is made.

Theo is the only “bean to bar” organic and fair trade certified true chocolate maker in the United States! That is why we have such an interest in them. What does that mean though? Being organic means all of their ingredients are sustainably sourced. Being fair trade certified means all their ingredients are produced ethically and the farmers can take their livelihoods to the next level of sophistication Finally, “bean to bar” refers to the processing of the cocoa beans which go from raw material to finished product all on premises.

Garrett Oliver, Brooklyn Brewery's brewmaster, states in his book "The Brewmasters Table" that chocolate actually pairs better with beer then wine. Theo knew of this wonderful marriage and created a chocolate and beer pairing kit to take home.

After we left Theo, we took a stroll down by the water, headed East to Fremont Brewing. It was there we met up with our host John and enjoyed a couple pints of well crafted beer. The guys and gals at Fremont Brewing put the same care and effort into their beer that the folks at Theo put into their Chocolate. Founder Matt Lincecum tells the story of their first beer in this video.

Because Beer Matters

After we left Seattle, we rode down to 99 Bottles in Federal Way to give a talk on our trip. The owner, Craig, had heard of our trip on the Howard Stern Show and wrote to us through our website. He said, “If you’re coming through town we’d love to do a beer tasting, and feature you trip and what you are doing.” When the time came, Craig and his wife Tiffany held a great event featuring New Belgium Beer (a brewery we visited and loved in Fort Collins, CO) and opened up the floor to let us talk about Farm Aid and our travels.

The support shown by them was overwhelming and the reception by the people attending was a ton of fun. The venue was a beer lovers dream, and the event was decidedly a big success.

99 Bottles has over 1,000 beers from all over the World

Thank You to Tiffany & Craig, two people who truly appreciate finely crafted beer. (Craig never smiles for pictures, but always when he's talking about beer.)

On our way South, we had yet another memorable stop. This time it was cookies that called. And not just any cookies… These were hand-made, fresh, made with real butter, mostly organic, and delicious cookies from The Main Street Cookie Company.

Started by the Zambutos in 2005, they harnessed Joycelyn’s creative cookie baking powers and built a cookie company.

Touring cyclists need carbs! We got the cookie hookup and it kept us going through the day.

Welcome to Cookie Heaven. Thanks Joycelyn!

Give A Bike

With all the people we have met along our travels, there has been no shortage of inspiration. It’s challenging lifestyle, but we constantly find reasons to keep going and to keep smiles on our faces. I have mentioned these two crazy people before and it’s about time I mentioned them again.

Adam & Christy Coppola have bicycled all 48 continental United States this year. No small feat for sure. We have now met up with them three times on their journey, twice while on ours. The most recent was in Castle Rock, Washington, right before we dropped into Oregon.

It takes a certain kind of person to spend that much time on a bike...

Christy’s writing has been an insightful look into what life on the bike has been for them, while Adam’s photography is unequivocally some of the best I have seen… Ever. Together, the two of them paint a beautiful picture of what it is to bike tour, and they do it all for a great cause.

The increasing quality of my photography has been greatly influenced by the guidance, tips, and suggestions I have received by Adam. If you think my stuff is at all good, please check out their blog.

Their trip is starting to wind down. Having ridden through the 48 conjoined states, they are taking time in Alaska and Hawaii before heading home to Connecticut.

Trip Update:

Kate and I are on the Oregon Coast. We will be in California in a couple of days with San Francisco in our sights for the end of November. After almost 6 months on the road and approaching the 5000 mile mark, we will take some time to write, process photos, and take advantage of what San Francisco has to offer. But not before we visit some more great farms, breweries, and restaurants first.

It’s going to be an exciting and busy month for us. The weather has been good so far (though I fear to write that too soon). The hills have been taxing on the legs as we head South down the West Coast, but the views make up for it. There’s something about seeing the powerful beauty of the Pacific to lighten our spirits and give strength to our legs. Cannot wait to get those photos up to share.

That said, we are getting back into camping mode after spending some time in the pulchritudinous (thank you, thesaurus.com) cities of Seattle and Portland. It is likely we will go a few days with scare power and WiFi. Bear with us.

Besides the scenery, we have really enjoyed the people out here. There is a lot of work and a lot of effort being put into food and drink because it matters. It matters to each of us personally (we cannot function without eating), it matters to local communities, and it matters to us as a global community. Sustainable food is not something that is elitist and “kitchy”. Local and sustainable food is where our food system is heading, slowly but surely, and largely because of the folks we feature on our site. Of that, I am certain.

Nutrient Binge!

With 6-8 hours a day riding bicycles, elevated metabolisms, and some pretty poor food selections in middle America, Kate and I were craving fresh, local, and nutrient dense food. We burn an average of 4,000 to 10,000 calories a day. We found a smattering of good food and farmers’ markets East of the Cascade Mountains, but now that we are west of the Cascades, holy moley, the food is amazing (beer is mind-blowing too, but more on that later).

During our time in the San Juan Islands, we made it our mission to pack on a few high quality pounds to help prepare for the trip South. We’re not talking a fast food bender here, no no. We’re talking vegetables, fruits, complex carbohydrates, and LOTS of them.

The best place for fresh, local, and nutrient dense produce is the farmers’ market. We had met some of the farmers already, and had been to some of their farms. Now was our chance to stock up on some vegetable goodies. I was so impressed with the colors, the tastes, the smells, and the over all quality of the products offered at the Friday Harbor market that I essentially am writing this post just to share a few of the pictures.

A cornucopia of fresh vegetables.

Heirloom Peppers

More Heirloom Peppers

Fair Trade Coffee and an Apricot Cinnamon Roll... Nice to have a treat once in a while.

Purple Viking and German Butterball Potatoes. That's right, purple potatoes!

Fingerling potatoes are great for roasting.

Sweet Earth's Farm Stand

Not edible, but flowers add some color to the overcast Pacific North West.

We had a good time walking around the market and talking to the farmers and producers. We have learned a lot about what it takes to move produce in an increasingly educated market.

By the end of the week we felt rested, nourished, and ready for the road.

If you want to grow up to be a big dinosaur, you have to eat your vegetables!

Trip Update:

Kate and I took a quick trip up to Canada to see Michael Ableman (blog post in the draft phases). We then crossed the border back to Friday Harbor to get the rest of our stuff, rode through Arlington, Fremont, and Federal Way in Washington. While in Fremont (part of Seattle), we toured Theo Chocolate, Homegrown Sandwich Shop, and Fremont Brewing Company.

Sunday, we talked to patrons at 99 Bottles in Federal Way, WA. We were blown away by the support 99 Bottles showed for our trip and for Farm Aid. With over 1000 beers in stock and a wealth of beer knowledge to accompany them, 99 Bottles should be on any beer fanatics trip itinerary.

Now we are headed South to Roy to spend a night at Wilkox Farms. Then, on to Portland. We have been told time and again that once we get to Portland we are going to call the trip off and stay there…We’ll have to see about that.

After Portland, we head over to the coast, South along the coast taking stops for breweries, farms, and redwood forests. When we hit Route 128 in California, we will head inland to Napa and Sonoma Valley. We should be in San Francisco just before December. It will be our first Thanksgiving where it’s just the two of us…weird.